Dan’s Bourbon of the Week: Traverse City Whiskey Company American Cherry Edition Bourbon

Today I start the two week countdown: two weeks from tomorrow I will be traveling to Louisville Kentucky to take part in the Bourbon Classic. The Classic is a newer event where distillers, enthusiasts, master chefs, distilleries and fans will gather in Louisville to learn about, taste and truly revel in the spirit we enjoy so much. This will be my first time at the Classic, a Christmas gift courtesy of my wonderful wife Jen, and I am counting down the minutes.

In The meantime, life goes on. And today it went on with an unexpected snowfall, and a painfully slow commute home from work. Such a day almost requires a glass of fine bourbon at the end of it to calm one’s nerves. Luckily for me, I had several new ones to choose from, so this evening I sampled one of he newer offerings from the Traverse City Whiskey Co., a Cherry infused Bourbon they refer to as their “American Cherry Edition!”

For those familiar with it, the Traverse City Whiskey Co. has been making small batch Michigan-based bourbon for a a while now. I say making, but in actuality they, as a newer distillery, have been purchasing their bourbon from a Midwest distributor who has created it to the taste profile they requested. This can get tricky, as we discussed in the past. Sometimes that means that smaller distilleries are basically slapping a label on a second rate product, and selling it under a “local” banner.

Now, if you read this blog regularly you know there are two particular things that can get my goat when talking about bourbon. I really hate when I believe a second rate offering hits the market at a premium price simply to be part of the current bourbon craze, and I have a personal vendetta against Bourbons that have been tarnished with too much finishing, flavor adding, or just shenanigans that confuse a flavor profile. So it would be a fair assumption that I would not be fond of a bourbon whiskey, from a newer outsourced brand, that has been infused with cherries. But that assumption would be wrong.

At least tonight. Maybe it was a refreshing drink after a long day. Maybe it was my home state pride. Likely, it was both with a strong dose of the mere fact I love cherries. But I actually enjoyed this, even more then I would have guessed.

My take:

The bottle I purchased was hand labeled Batch 001. Now I don’t know if that means it came from their first batch ever, as the product was just introduced in the fall, or the first batch of this year. But it was number one all the same. The nose was exactly what you would expect from a cherry infused bourbon. The scent of cherries, so integral a part of Traverse City tradition, was certainly the most noticeable element. There was also a strong scent of burned sugar, so common in younger Bourbons. After the glass sat a while, you could pick out notes of vanilla giving way to a baking spice elements. Cherries, vanilla and baking spices…made me hungry for a slice of pie to go with it.

The taste was more bourbon than cherry, and I’d say, for the market they seek, it’s a well measured mix. I could still get strong vanilla tastes, and although it was a rye, the spiciness was very low and tempered. That was probably due in no small part to the cherries, which blended well. There was a nice oakiness to it as well. It’s a thin mouth feel, and goes down easy with very little burn at the finish. I like a mellowed finish myself, so those looking for that finishing warmth may be disappointed, but then again, if you’re looking to get your ass kicked, you probably aren’t drinking cherry infused bourbon.

The price point for this juice is not bad – I picked it up for $25 and it seems about right. I would be more likely to mix it in an Old Fashioned or Manhattan where the cherry flavor would be a better touch.

According to their website, the Traverse City Whiskey Co. is currently working to set it self up as a fully in house bourbon distillery. They are going so far as to plant the crops that they will use in the process. Personally, I encourage this kind of growth. There is something special about a distillery that grows, distills and markets its own unique beverages. I look forward to seeing how the TCWC grows.

I feel strange about giving a rating to a bourbon that is so different then the others I typically try. But I will do it anyway.

Dan’s rating: 8.3 as a mixer bourbon; 7.5 as a sipper

Shakeup in the Bourbon World: Suntory purchases BEAM Inc

As many bourbon fans know, the craze around it’s production and consumption is not limited to the United States, or even North America. Other markets, including Europe and Asia, have been clamoring for the fine American beverage for some years now, despite the serious limitations in it’s availability there. It certainly comes as no surprise that an Asian company would make a power move by purchasing an American producer. The surprise is more which one will have global headquarters on the move.

BEAM, Inc, the company responsible for some of the most iconic American bourbons like Makers Mark, Knob Creek and, of course, the many faces of Jim Beam itself, will be purchased by Suntory Holdings, Inc. Suntory is a privately owned Japanese company, and they are purchasing BEAM, it’s assets and it’s debt, in entirety, and are adding the many products – which also include Canadian Club whisky, Sauza tequilla and Courvoisier cognac, among others.

What does this mean for the bourbons? It is not yet known what impact, if any, this will have on the products themselves. Suntory has been in the whisky game for a long time (they already owned whiskies Yamazaki – which they started in 1923 as Japan’s first whiskey producer, Hakushu, Hibiki and Midori liqueur). It would be expected that, given their closeness with the under-served Asian market, the import and distribution to Asia of a much higher quantity could be on the horizon.

That could mean shorter supply here at home, or higher prices, but only time will tell. It also could lead to the revisiting of a lower proof version. When Makers Mark announced their desire to water down the bourbon slightly last year to meet increased demand, a public relations firestorm ensued. Although they relented days later (leading some to wonder if it was a publicity stunt), public misconceptions still loom. Last year, I heard several liquor purchasers comment on their lack of interest in Makers now that it was “watered down,” and my attempts to explain to them that it was only a thought, and they hadn’t actually changed it were met with disbelief.

Only time will tell. For right now, the reporting is that the American management will stay in place.

The truth is most beverage distilleries are owned by large, global corporations and we are rarely any the wiser. I won’t go into the geo-political aspects but I would remind readers this: if the ‘buy local’ movement is something important to you, there are a fantastic wealth of homegrown bourbons of excellent quality available out there, including most of the big names. In the mean time…

It’s Suntory Time!

*thank you to the Wall Street Journal, New York Times, NPR and The Bourbon Review for details

Dan’s Bourbon of the Week: Angel’s Envy

It’s cold here in Detroit. Damn cold. A “polar vortex!” The kind of brutal cold that makes you want to curl up by the fire with a good book or, in the case of my wife, all six seasons of Breaking Bad. At once. Yikes.

Personally, I prefer the warmth that comes from sipping a great bourbon. So with that in mind, with the snow shoveling done and the wind howling, I perused my bourbon cabinet, and decided to try the unique looking bottle of Angel’s Envy.

I will admit I had a bit of a grudge against Angel’s Envy. When I first started making myself a nuisance around liquor stores, seeking out new bourbons to try and review, store keeper after store keeper would push Angel’s Envy on me. It started to get obnoxious – I’m looking on the backs of shelves for a forgotten single barrel, a neglected micro distillery bottle or a dusty bottle of Pappy or Stagg, and aggressive sales people kept telling me “try Angel’s Envy.” So I began to rebel against the thought of it, and didn’t pick up a bottle.

Well, this Christmas, I received a bottle as a gift, so there was no need to boycott it anymore. So while the gales blew outside, I popped the cork and poured a glass.

Angel’s Envy has been on the scene for a couple years, a unique bourbon with two claims to fame – one that it was created by the Master Distiller Lincoln Henderson, the taste buds behind Woodford Reserve’s introduction in the mid-90s, as well as the creation of Gentleman Jack Tennessee Whiskey; and two that it is a bourbon finished in Port Wine ‘pipes’ or barrels. Angel’s Envy hit the shelves in 2011, and didn’t take long to make a big splash.

Mr. Henderson passed away this last year, but the spirit he created in Angel’s Envy continues to live on.

My take: It has a distinctive bottle and it a sharp looking product. In the glass is is a lighter amber color than most of the bourbons I’ve sampled, more transparent and less thick looking.

But my goodness the nose – Angel’s Envy has a fantastic nose. There is a sweetness, like maple syrup and brown sugar. I also noted something reminiscent of raisins. With eyes closed, the sweetness came with each sniff – slight caramel, hints of vanilla. This had one of my favorite noses of all time.

After such a spectacular nose, I had a hunch the taste may let me down, and it did, if only a bit. Not that it was bad – far from. It was smooth and there were no unreasonable tastes. Mainly I noted soft corn, a hint of cinnamon and clove, and a very light vanilla. It didn’t burn, and no particular flavor jumped to the forefront. It was a fine, pleasant, and rather thin mouth-feeling bourbon. The finish was long and warm, and only then did you get a hint of the port wine that it was finished in.

When we were done, my wife Jen and I looked for the right words to describe it and struggled a bit. It was smooth, clean, almost too pure. I would not hesitate offering a glass to a non-bourbon drinker as something they might well enjoy. It was like…

…Gentleman Jack. It hit me that it’s smooth, tasteful but ultimately safe pour reminded me of Gentleman Jack, the smooth, tasteful but ultimately safe pour Tennessee Whiskey I enjoy when I’m not feeling like a bourbon. The fact that both are recipes from the same man only encouraged this feeling.

I love GJ, and I like AE. It might not be the bourbon I would pour for the adventurous bourbon palette, and it doesn’t have the aged taste of a great bourbon. But it is a also a drink you could have anytime without concern it would be the wrong taste for the moment either. If it was a plain whiskey, I would give it something in the mid or high 8’s, but as it is a bourbon…

Dan’s scale (1-10): 7.8

*there is a cask strength Angel’s Envy, which I am looking to score a bottle of. I have a hunch in a higher proof, I would like this bourbon even more and note certain flavors much more.

Dan’s Bourbon of the Week: Buffalo Trace Single Oak Project Barrel Number 136

A bittersweet weekend to be sure, but one deserving of a nice bourbon. My Missouri Tigers beat Ole Miss on Saturday night, propelling them to a number five ranking in the country – exciting times indeed! Next week it’s a matchup against Texas A&M, for the chance to play in the SEC championship game.

Unfortunately, Sunday led to a feeling all Detroit Lions fans know to well: the dismay of watching our beloved Motor City Kitties grab a defeat from the jaws of victory. Four interceptions, a fumble, and a blocked punt to boot (pun sadly intended). A brutal game watching experience while the November cold howled outside.

If that wasn’t enough, this week we raise our bourbon glasses to the passing of one of the best television characters I can remember rooting for (Spoiler Alert): Richard Harrow on Boardwalk Empire. In my 36 years of television watching, I have grown fond of a lot of shows and certain characters – Silvio Dante (Sopranos), Jim Halpert (Office), Boyd Crowder (Justified), and on and on. But few, if any, did I root for as much as I did for the sad, sharpshooting war veteran from Boardwalk Empire. I (and we) rooted for his salvation, and felt true joy when he found it. He was often the conscience on a show full of dark, evil deeds. And last night, in the season finale, he was laid to rest after saving those people he cared about most, and was done in by the very soul he had found. Rest in peace Richard – we drink to you!

So without further ado – our bourbon of the week!

Today we try another bottle from the ever fun and interesting Buffalo Trace Distillery‘s Single Oak Project, and today’s comes from batch number 136. A few details about 136:

Barrel # 136
Distillation Date: 1/6/2003
Age: 8 years old
Entry Proof: 125 info
Bourbon Recipe: Rye
Char Level: #4 Char
Months: Seasoned 6
Tree Cut: Bottom
Warehouse: L
Warehouse Type: Concrete Floor
Warehouse Location: L-3-27

I do love trying these unique one-of-a-kind bourbons, for the reasons I’ve stated before – much of the fun for me is in comparing the differences, the subtleties of the character that so many bourbons have, and by making each barrel so different, Buffalo Trace has really given us something to enjoy in that special way.

My take: There was much disagreement in the house on this one between my wife Jen and I. This particular batch exemplifies the differences in what each of us likes in our bourbons.

The nose was warm and inviting – a rich caramel and toffee gave way to notes of dried fruits and an almost sticky sense of molasses and honey. One of the best noses I’ve encountered.

The mouth-feel was rich and thick, although not overwhelmingly so. The taste was quite smooth, carrying through on the toffee and caramel, with a bit of molasses and nutmeg thrown in for good measure. It was a little too smooth for Jen, who likes her bourbon spicy and punchier. The finish was medium and also smooth, not overwhelming or harsh in the least.

To conclude – I liked this one – alot!

Dan scale (1-10): 8.1

Dan’s Bourbon of the Week: Old Weller Antique 107 Proof

Back in the saddle after a pretty miserable week – I had the misfortune of breaking a tooth on my way to a gig in upstate Michigan last week, and by last weekend, I had a fever, an inability to open my mouth more than an inch and worst of all, no appetite for food or even bourbon. So I skipped my Bourbon of the Week last week, lest I deliver a less-than review. Also, because consciousness was escaping me at large. A root canal, some hefty antibiotics and the TLC of my wonderful wife and I’m almost back to full strength.

And of course, for all the weeks for me to power down, it had to be Pappy Van Winkle release week. I will post later this week with my thoughts about the great Pappy search, the craziness that is ‘collectors bourbon’ right now (and how disheartening it can be for a true bourbon enthusiast) and how vultures are despicably ruining a great thing, but for now let’s just say that it looks like the PVW release of 2013 has left me high and dry.

So for my return, I go to a time tested and trusted friend. My Bourbon of the Week is Old Weller Antique 107 Proof.

One of the many things I enjoy about bourbon is the amount of variables can influence taste. Aging, where the barrels are stored, the char, the oaks, the blend, the sour mash recipe – so many possible variations. Old Weller Antique 107 adheres to one of the standards that makes the Van Winkle’s so highly touted: it uses wheat instead of rye, and uses the same mash bill. This is why some have referred to the Old Weller as ‘poor man’s pappy.’ And there are certainly some similar qualities there.

My take: The Old Weller Antique 107 is a fine bourbon, with a fantastic price point. The nose is lovely, even from a distance, with thick notes of caramel, as well as some light apple, citrus, vanilla and even a bit of warm toffee.

The taste is thick and leans a bit toward the creamy, with a soft palate. Vanilla, caramel comes with the good kick of that 107 proof. You taste a bit of the earthiness that often comes with wheat. There’s a soft spiciness in the back, but not overwhelming. With a chip of ice, it opens up a little bit more and has a touch more zest.

The finish has a slight burn, but really not what you might expect. It’s a medium-long finish, and quite satisfying. Overall, a solid bourbon indeed!

Dan scale (1-10): 8.0

Bourbon Link – Alton Brown talks with Julian Van Winkle

Alton Brown, multi media foodie star, talks to Julian Van Winkle about Pappy, waiting lists, fancy bottles, and a bourbon tasting. Note to remember – don’t let Alton and his flask near your Pappy!

Alton Browncast – Alton and Julian Van Wiinkle

Dan’s Bourbon of the Week: Early Times 354 Bourbon

This was a pretty cruddy day. Last night, the Detroit Tigers lost the ALCS to the Boston Red Sox, those grungy, prospector-looking bums from Beantown. It was a heartbreaker too – another late grand slam, base-running bloopers by Prince Fielder, more bullpen implosions. Then, just for good measure, the Lions choked away a game against the Cincinnati Bengals, Brutal. It’s only fitting that I sampled a brutal bourbon as well.

This week, I tried another selection recommended for me by my favorite bourbon store here in Michigan, but the results left something to be desired.

The Early Times 354 is a re-entry into the United States market. Early Times was apparently the most popular bourbon in the US in the 1950s, and was (and is) wildly popular in Japan. In sampling it, I couldn’t help but feel it was a throwback to the rougher and tougher standards people had before the more recent small batch, single barrel preference was made.

All of that is a nice way of saying that, as a sipper, Early Times burned. It’s nose was harsh and primarily alcohol – I had to hold it for some time and at a further than normal distance to get a feeling for the notes of corn, cereals and a hint of spices. The taste I had a much more difficult time discerning. The alcohol was so strong, despite it’s being under hundred proof, that there wasn’t a lot of room for flavor. The finish was something out of an old western, where the hero takes a slug of the whiskey in the tavern and grunts. A slow, long burn.

The rest of this bottle will be mixed with Coke for parties, where it will harm no one.

Dan’s Bourbon of the Week: Penny Packer 80 proof Bourbon

It’s great times. The Tigers are in the ALCS, the Lions have a winning record, and my main men Joe and Giovanni from Kakos Liquor have advised me of a few new bourbons to give a taste to. The first one, which I took for a test drive this week, is Penny Packer 80 Proof.

Produced in Kentucky, bottled in Germany. I’m not sure how that is remotely close to a good business model, but the amazing thing here is the price point: $18. That means a fifth is cheaper than Beam or Jack. But is it as good? Sort of.

Smooth, vaguely sweet. Sips well, with hints of caramel and vanilla. No overpowering elements. Very clean finish. Not on par with the greats (a little bland) but no shame in it either, and I would think it would be great for bourbon mix drinks.

Dan scale (1-10): 7.3

Dan’s Bourbon of the Week: Smugglers’ Notch Straight Bourbon Whiskey

A few months back, my wife and my good friend Ben Johnson came in to visit from Vermont. His company would have been gift enough, but he did us one better: he brought with him a Vermont bourbon named Smuggler’s Notch. Jen and I sampled it then, but now that the blog is up and running, we went back and tried it again, to see if our initial feelings were the same. They were – it is great!

Smugglers Notch looks a little lighter than most in color, and to be honest, it is a little lighter. But something about it is so fresh and clean tasting, it is truly unique.

The nose is sweet and has notes of vanilla, corn, grains and nuts. The taste, Smooth (with a capital “S”), with a bit of spice but more notably, vanilla, chocolate, even a tiny bit of mint. The finish is relatively short, but with something this smooth, I say just pour another.

Smugglers Notch moves into my top 5. Delicious.

Dan scale (1-10): 8.8

Dan’s Bourbon of the Week: Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel, Warehouse Liquor (Chicago, IL)

This week’s bourbon and circumstances are pretty special. I am in Chicago to celebrate my first wedding anniversary to my wife Jen. We’re here for a long weekend, and living it up – hotel in the loop, meals at great restaurants like Everest and the Signature Room. Perhaps most fantastic, we’ve gone to two days of Riot Fest, an outdoor music festival at Chicago’s Humboldt Park featuring some of my all-time favorite bands, including (most importantly), the first American concert by The Replacements since 1991.

On Friday, we went to US Cellular Field and saw a White Sox-Indians game, which I will detail further in the future. Then, it was to Everest, where I knew we were going to have a wonderful meal when the drink list included my all-time favorite bourbon, Jefferson Reserve 18 Year. Saturday, it was all day at Riot Fest, where we took in Mephiskaphales, X, The Selecter, Dinosaur Jr, Guided By Voices, Blondie, Rancid and The Violent Femmes. Set after set, we had a fantastic time on a uncloudy, beautiful day. Jen was particularly fond of DeVotchka, a great gypsy-latin-eastern-european band that put on a particularly wonderful performance. It’s not everyday you get to see the hora danced at a punk rock festival! We closed the night on a Ferris Wheel, watching the Femmes perform their first album in it’s entirety. It was a wonderful day.

Day three was wet. Wet and rainy. We had a delicious brunch at the Signature Room, then we headed to Warehouse Liquors, which Yelp had advised us was one of the best bourbon shops in Chicago. Yelp told no lies – this store is truly fantastic. Their selection of liquors – not just bourbons – was amazing, and with so many new sights and bottles to choose from, it was hard to pick one. After chatting with the man at the counter for at least one half hour, we settled on a bottle of Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel, selected by and bottled for the store.

Back to Riot Fest, and the rain. Bob Mould has been one of my favorite musicians for many many years – since his days in Husker Du and Sugar – so it was well worth getting a little wet to see a personal legend play. Best Coast was another new band I wanted to see and despite the cold and rain, they did not disappoint with their reverb drenched surfer songs. Then, back to a rollicking set by Rocket From The Crypt. We decided to stay at the Replacements stage to guarantee a good vantage point, so we watched the goth-punky AFI before the rain stopped, and The Replacements utterly rocked our world. They played a set drawn from their whole repertoire, old to new. So many of my favorites were played I couldn’t have been more pleased, from “Bastards of Young” to “Achin To Be,” “Hold My Life,” and “Takin A Ride.” And all of it with my beautiful wife by my side. It couldn’t have been better.

Dan's Bourbon of the Week: Elmer T. Glee Single Barrel, Warehouse Liquor (Chicago, IL) — Dan’s Bourbon of the Week: Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel, Warehouse Liquor (Chicago, IL)

Now, for the bourbon – the nose on this bourbon is full of rich, aromatic spices. Cinnamon, allspice, apples, it has it all.

The taste follows this with a spicy punch. Tasty, and clean, this is a great bourbon. Pepper, oak char, that cinnamon, and a bit of vanilla helps with a long finish to boot. This is the kind of bourbon my wife particularly likes. We did notice one unique thing though, neither of us liked the changes adding ice chips made to it. Instead of mellowing it a bit, it made the pepper pop more, and lost some of the sweeter notes. Still, an absolute winner.

Dan scale (1-10): 8.3